Tuesday, April 22, 2014

pasta with cabbage and pancetta

Pasta with cabbage and pancetta

It was over dinner Saturday night that Franny’s restaurant cookbook came up in conversation. A woman seated next to me asked if the book was any good.

“It’s very good,” I replied.

Then I added, “Full disclosure: I worked on it, but it’s very good independent of that.”

The conversation veered in many directions through the evening – fig trees, writing, what we were eating – but my thoughts stayed with Franny’s cookbook through the night and into Sunday morning. It had been too long since I cooked from it.

I had a head of Savoy cabbage in the crisper that was patiently awaiting its fate. Time had turned its leaves more wilted than its normal veining makes it appear – and more limp, too. But cabbage is a resilient vegetable – a few days past its prime and it’s still in fighting spirit. Soups, stews, roasted wedges, cabbage is a marathon vegetable. I can’t think of a single occasion when a head of cabbage went beyond the ability to be salvaged in my house. On the other hand, I can think of countless bags of spinach I’ve forgotten about and found weeks later, way in the back of the refrigerator, the bag’s contents having liquefied itself to a foul-smelling brown liquid. On some unlucky occasions, the bags leaked and instead just removing the offensive produce, I’d spend the next hour scrubbing the refrigerator shelves.

Pasta with cabbage and pancetta

I had some distant memory of helping to test Franny’s pasta with cabbage. At the time, eating it made it feel “northern” to me in origin, but it wasn’t until the headnote was written that I confirmed it. There’s butter too – a loose hint of its geographic roots. It was very good; spartan almost, with just a loose binding of creamy cheese to tie everything together.

I futzed with it a little, adding pancetta and sage, and swapping out garlic for ramp greens left over from a recipe test a week prior. I had some sharp Pecorino Romano on hand, instead of the preferred Toscano (a softer, less aged sheep’s milk cheese) – but I was also craving a sharper, more aggressive bite to stand up to pancetta’s assertiveness.

Pasta with cabbage and pancetta

It never ceases to amaze me that something as humble and as unassuming as a head of cabbage, can produce such marvelous, glorious results. Hardly exotic, imminently accessible and affordable, sold at every vegetable store and supermarket – have you ever shown up to a grocery store to find it out of cabbage? – it seems improbable that a vegetable of such seemingly meager aspirations can reach such great heights.

Cabbage and pancetta. Start of Sunday dinner.

But it can. The proof is staring at you above.

Quick Housekeeping Note:
I’m starting a new tag (one I’ll have to apply retroactively) called “weeknight” which will denote things I cook for me and Andrew (and our friends and family who visit) on a regular weeknight. Yes, I work at home, but my time, too, is at a premium, and weeknight cooking has to be quick, efficient, and imminently delicious – something we turn to over and over. I want to work within a commuting person’s parameters, plus weeknights tend to be busy no matter what. If it takes me longer than 1 hour, start to finish, to make, the dish won’t get the “weeknight” label. I realize some of you may be looking for an even quicker meal, but in my experience, between prep and clean-up, and such, an hour is a reasonable time frame to manage your expectations.

Pasta with Cabbage and Pancetta
Adapted from Franny’s: Simple. Seasonal. Italian.

As I mentioned above, I wanted my pasta to have a little more heft, so I added pancetta, and a bit of fresh sage, for good measure; pancetta and sage are such good friends, why separate them? I wanted to transition the dish to have spring-like notes, and it was fortuitous that I had some ramp greens on hand. Plus, what a great way to use your ramp greens! Lastly, I didn’t have any pecorino Toscano on hand (it’s becoming easier and easier to find, by the way) and wanted a more assertive cheese to stand up to pancetta – so I used pecorino Romano.

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
6 ounce pancetta, cubed
1 (2 to 2 ½ pound) cabbage, cored and cut into thin strips
Greens from a bunch of ramps, chopped (about 1 ½ cups)
Kosher salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
2 tablespoons chiffonade of fresh sage
1/2 teaspoon chili flakes
1 pound pasta, such as penne or farfalle
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons finely grated Pecorino Romano (or for a meltier version, Toscano)
Freshly ground black pepper

1. In a very large skillet, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, until browned, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the cabbage and cook, stirring, until golden, 7 to 8 minutes. Add ramp greens, a generous pinch of salt, 2 tablespoons of the butter, sage, and chili flakes. Cook until the ramp greens are wilted and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add a splash of water to the pan. Remove from heat.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and add enough salt so the water tastes like seawater. Cook the pasta until 2 minutes shy of al dente; drain, reserving ½ cup of the pasta water.

3. Toast pasta in the skillet with the cabbage and return to medium heat. Add the remaining butter and cook, over medium heat, until the pasta is al dente, 1 to 2 minutes, adding a little more water to the pan if the sauce seems dry. Toss pasta and cabbage with cheese, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide pasta among serving plates or bowls and top each with the remaining grated cheese and a drizzle of olive oil.

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12 Comments

  • 1
    Gayle said:

    I’ve got a head of cabbage in the fridge, ready for this recipe! Also, your photos are beautiful – glad the kitchen’s (finally) working out.

    April 22, 2014 11:17 am
  • 2
    olga said:

    Gayle – thanks! iPhone these days, as I am terribly busy with other work! Yes, that minus the pancetta for you :) xo

    April 22, 2014 11:19 am
  • 3
    Adrienne said:

    How convenient that I have half a cabbage and some cured pork something or other in my fridge right this very minute. Dinner! Tonight!

    April 22, 2014 12:03 pm
  • 4
    Brian Berg said:

    I too have an unused half a head of cabbage in the fridge that I had no idea what I was going to do with until I saw this! I’ll have to substitute some “lardon fume” for pancetta as I’ve got 2 packs (about 200g) that I need to use but I think that should work (?)

    April 22, 2014 12:35 pm
  • 5
    olga said:

    Adrienne – yes, definitely!!

    Brian – lardon fume sounds like speck to me, so it should work, but the dish will be decidedly more smoky, not that it’s a bad thing :)

    April 22, 2014 12:49 pm
  • 6
    Kate said:

    I love cabbage, and I eat it all the time, sometimes braised with onions, sometimes fried with rice, other times in soups. I have never thought to eat it with pasta! Paired with pancetta I think it would be heavenly.

    April 22, 2014 7:31 pm
  • 7
    olga said:

    Kate – it’s really great, I hope you like it, from one cabbage lover to another! :) Funny enough, I have been thinking about Japanese home cooking and will have to read your blog more carefully for some ideas/dishes! Perfect timing!

    April 23, 2014 9:47 am
  • 8

    This dish – more or less – is a Minchilli household staple. But I love the addition of the sage, which I never think of. Will do so next time for sure!

    April 24, 2014 3:32 am
  • 9
    olga said:

    Elizabeth – let me know what you think about the sage addition. This will, quickly, become a staple here too. Not sure why it took so long to begin with!

    April 24, 2014 8:12 am
  • 10
    Kate said:

    Oh, cabbage and pork fat, probably one of the most amazing combos ever. Along with some chewy pasta and cheese? I’d probably make short work of the entire pan. I’ll definitely be on the lookout for Franny’s!

    April 27, 2014 12:08 pm
  • 11
    olga said:

    Kate – it’s a good book to have. lots of delicious stuff in there. i noticed though, that for that recipe, the book didn’t specify which pecorino to use, but the headnote indicated it was a Tuscan dish, and I recall that we tested it with pecorino toscano… so just be aware of that kind of a thing, and if you run into questions, please let me know :)

    April 27, 2014 5:56 pm
  • 12

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    May 1, 2014 1:35 pm

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