Monday, January 28, 2013

roasted butternut squash and red onion with tahini and za’atar

roasted butternut squash and red onion with tahini and za'atar

I was forced to relinquish the map; I had no idea where we were and was getting visibly stressed out. This was our first real trip and I was trying to impress not only with my ability to pick out good restaurants but also that I had fine navigational skills, which by the way, normally are quite strong. And yet those skills were failing me at that very moment – big time.

We were somewhere near Notting Hill, desperate to find one of the Ottolenghi restaurants we’ve heard so much about. I thought I had a pretty good handle on the map, but managed to take a wrong turn and there we were, in a cozy residential part of London that was, distinctly, not where we wanted to be.

I started to stress-sweat through my shirt: I expected Andrew to get angry and sullen, and blame me for not doing enough research, but instead, he calmly took the map, looked at it for a minute, and started to walk in the opposite direction.

“I think it’s this way,” he said, taking a right turn off the main street. I followed him, quietly. We reached our destination ten minutes later but not before Andrew spotted Idris Elba walking down the street and being chased by a group of squealing girls. I was too stressed out to notice Stringer Bell in the flesh. I regret it to this day.

Eating at Ottolenghi in Notting Hill required waiting in line; a wait that was well-worth the food. On our way out, our bellies full, we purchased a bag of lemon sandwich cookies so incredible, we had to ration them out in order to snack on them for the rest of the trip. One cookie per person per day. Draconian measures.

roasted butternut squash and red onion with tahini and za'atar

Everything we ate at Ottolenghi, and I mean everything, tasted superlative. Fresh. Seductive. Bright.

In the end, looking back on our London trip, it was by far my favorite place to eat. I don’t know if that makes me utterly unsophisticated in the realm of fine dining, but I could have had all my meals at Ottolenghi and would’ve remained a very happy woman. Everything was perfectly seasoned, with bright (I know I am repeating myself), bold flavors and always, always a nice note of surprise. Each dish made me want to know more. The flavor elements: tahini, za’atar, lemon, garlic, a crisp, bracing vinegar. Acid and salt – my favorite things.

And thus, Ottolenghi fastened himself in my mind as someone who makes ridiculously delicious food. Food that I want to eat with abandon. And food that makes even skeptical vegetable eaters – clean up their plates and never question the absence of meat. By the way, Ottolenghi is not a vegetarian, but what he does with vegetables, well – he even wrote a vegetarian cookbook, which is beloved in our kitchen.

Today, I offer you roasted butternut squash and red onion drizzled with tahini and sprinkled with za’atar. I know that it sounds good, but it tastes even better. You roast chunks of squash and red onion until they are slightly charred and have a pleasantly burnt taste. The onion blisters and turns deep, dark purple – which visually looks stunning against the orange squash.

roasted butternut squash and red onion with tahini and za'atar

While the vegetables undergo their transformation, you make a lemon-and-garlic spiked tahini sauce and cook some pine nuts in olive oil and salt until they get golden-brown. And then you layer everything together and serve it in one show-stopping stunner of a dish. The colors alone make you do a double-take. And then when you finally taste it, you’re done for.

If you think you might show more restraint, just talk to my husband who accidentally ate three quarters of it and forgot to ask if I wanted more. For the record, I would’ve done the same thing – it’s just that he got to it first.

Roasted Butternut Squash and Red Onion with Tahini and Za’atar
Adapted from Jerusalem: A Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi

I don’t normally insist on certain cookbooks beings a must-own in your library, but I really think you can’t go wrong with this book. The recipes are fantastic and straightforward, and while you might have to get a few “exotic” ingredients like tahini, za’atar, or date syrup, it’s well worth the investment. These ingredients will enable you to flavor your food differently, expand your palate, and make you a better cook. If you don’t have a Middle Eastern shop near you (I am, at the moment, very lucky in that department), there’s always Kalustyan’s which has all three of the above ingredients, and then some.

1 medium butternut squash (about 624 grams; 22 ounces) peeled and cut into 1×2 1/2 inch pieces
1 large red onion, cut into eighths
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil, divided
1 1/4 teaspoons fine sea salt, divided plus additional to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons tahini paste
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 small garlic clove, pounded into a paste
3 tablespoons (30 grams; about 1.2 ounces) pine nuts
1 tablespoon za’atar
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Flaky sea salt

1. Heat the oven to 475 degrees F with the rack positioned in the middle.

2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the squash and onion and 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, and a few twists of the pepper grinder. Toss until the ingredients are combined. Spread the vegetables on a shallow baking sheet, leaving them enough “breathing” room and roast in the oven 25 to 35 minutes, or until the vegetables have taken on some color and are cooked through. You’ll want to see a little bit of charring, though not too much. Keep an eye out on the onion; you may need to pick it out earlier. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

3. While the vegetables are roasting, make the sauce. Place the tahini I a small bowl along with 2 tablespoons of water, lemon juice, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt. Whisk until the sauce is the consistency of honey. You might need to add more water or tahini, depending.

4. Pour the remaining 1 teaspoon of oil into a small skillet and place over medium-low heat. Add the pine nuts along with 1/2 teaspoon of fine sea salt, and cook, stirring often until the nuts are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove fro the heat and transfer both: the nuts and the oil to a small bowl (otherwise the nuts will continue to cook).

5. To serve, spread the vegetables out on a large plate or a serving platter, and drizzle over the tahini. Sprinkle the pine nuts and their oil on top, followed by za’atar and the parsley. Add a few flakes of the flaky sea salt and serve.

Serves 2 to 4.

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31 Comments

  • 1
    Elissa said:

    Gorgeous! And sounds absolutely delicious. Fortunately I just re-upped my stocks of za-atar and tahini–time to go buy some squash and red onion!

    January 28, 2013 2:16 pm
  • 2

    I could only see half the tweet behind another open window on my computer but somehow I knew this was an Ottolenghi/Jerusalem recipe. Great story – and I couldn’t be more jealous that you actually ate there in London and I couldn’t agree more about the bright addictive interesting flavors and that Jerusalem is a must-buy book. If we didn’t somehow struggle communicating via email :-) I would have written to you already to invite you to join our conversation and cooking via Tasting Jerusalem. My friend Sarene and I are running a virtually cooking community to learn about the unique flavors of the Middle East through the lens of the cookbook Jerusalem. We are that enamored of the colors, flavors, stories, and recipes in the book. I hope you don’t mind that I will share this terrific post with our group via the hashtag #TastingJrslm and on our FB page. Please join the conversation if you can – you have such great experience to share. Lovely post Olga.

    January 28, 2013 2:19 pm
  • 3
    olga said:

    Beth – Yes! Carol Sachs told me about it and I would totally join were I so disorganized right now insofar as cooking goes. I have been following your project from afar though – and I think it’s awesome you guys are doing it. Share the post :) I’m flattered you liked it.

    January 28, 2013 2:21 pm
  • 4
    Eileen said:

    Such a beautiful dish! I got the Jerusalem cookbook for holidays, but haven’t had a chance to try out any of the recipes yet. Clearly, I need to get on that!

    January 28, 2013 2:33 pm
  • 5

    How wonderful you got to eat at Ottolenghi! And I often say food is best if you can talk about it in superlatives. Beautiful post.

    January 28, 2013 2:33 pm
  • 6
    Ashley said:

    Writing ingredients on the list immediately… This sounds absolutely amazing, and I’ve been more and more eager to get my hands on Jerusalem and Plenty. The primary reason I haven’t already done so is, being somewhat silly and nerdy, I want to stretch out the joy of a new cookbook as long as possible before purchasing another. I think I’m fast approaching the point where I give in to the desire.
    Love the story, by the way. I definitely stress out when I’m lost, and I have terrible skills with directions.

    January 28, 2013 2:38 pm
  • 7

    Looks gorgeous and sounds even better. I love za’atar; that helps!

    January 28, 2013 4:13 pm
  • 8
    emmycooks said:

    This dish is one of my favorite foods at the moment. We’ve been making it over and over again. I took it to a potluck last night and got a thank-you note from te host as she was eating the leftovers for lunch today. It’s irrisistable–and everything else I’ve cooked from that book is great as well. I look forward to trying his restaurants some day!

    January 28, 2013 4:56 pm
  • 9

    Lovely writing, lovely food — wonderful post, Olga!

    January 28, 2013 8:08 pm
  • 10
    Katie said:

    Oh, I’ve been craving his cookbook for quite some time. The colors in this dish are just stunning!

    January 28, 2013 10:29 pm
  • 11

    Sometimes the little adventures we experience along the way make reaching the final destination so much better. It sounds as though you had a fabulous meal, and this butternut squash looks so rich with flavor.

    January 29, 2013 12:13 am
  • 12
    Jess said:

    Dear Jesus… Breathtaking.

    January 29, 2013 6:48 am
  • 13
    Karen said:

    Yes, his cookbooks are breathtaking (as is he!!;)) I’ve made this twice already, and last night’s riff was with carmelized onions instead of raw and a bit of preserved lemon peel in the dressing. Just divine. Thanks for sharing your lovely photos with us!

    January 29, 2013 7:29 am
  • 14
    dalina said:

    I think this will make you happy- Kimchi-revolution!!!

    http://mynewroots.org/site/2013/01/fabulous-fermentation-
    week-kimchi/
    greetings

    January 29, 2013 1:51 pm
  • 15

    I am DEFINITELY adding this to my vegetarian friendly list. What a great dish. And, I really like that you got so flustered. It’s find of adorable.

    January 29, 2013 5:09 pm
  • 16
    Hannah said:

    I sighed as I read this post, Olga! I am cooking my way through Jerusalem and each recipe has been a gem. After your mouthwatering description of this butternut squash I’m adding it to our Shabbat menu this week (which includes the roasted chicken with clementines and arak). I’m envious of your visit to Ottolenghi’s restaurant, and I really want a lemon sandwich cookie now! Thank you for your delightful words.

    January 30, 2013 12:04 pm
  • 17
    Deda said:

    I can’t read this recipe as the martha stewart living advert on the left is oversize and blocking the ingredients list. anyone else have this issue?

    January 30, 2013 3:24 pm
  • 18
    olga said:

    Deda – I’m actually currently working on this. Not sure why the ad is spilling over its allowed dimensions.

    January 30, 2013 3:31 pm
  • 19
    annie bonnie said:

    I was stunned by the visual beauty of the dish, and made it tonight. It is every bit as delicious as it is beautiful. And cost……maybe $4?
    A perfect start to my new vegan adventure. Thank you, Olga. I always love your dishes.

    January 31, 2013 8:38 pm
  • 20
    Melissa said:

    I just discovered za’atar and LOVE it. I’ll be sure to make this soon!

    January 31, 2013 8:55 pm
  • 21
    Diana said:

    this looks beautiful and the colors wonderful

    February 1, 2013 5:58 pm
  • 22
    michele said:

    made this recipe a few times, love it and love every recipe that Yotam has in his books. If you love veggies you should have all his books.

    February 2, 2013 8:58 am
  • 23
    rachel said:

    this looks amazing and your story was cute too–i am also navigationally challenged but keep thinking i’ll get over it one of these days. . . i will definitely be eating at ottolehngi on my next trip to london!

    February 3, 2013 12:31 pm
  • 24
    Talaia said:

    Wow, this looks great!

    February 4, 2013 8:36 pm
  • 25
    Michele said:

    We ate loads of za’atar when we were in Syria. Try a few heaping tablespoons on browned chicken thighs topped with the juice of a lemon over rice and lots of parsley. Wonderful stuff.

    February 5, 2013 11:00 pm
  • 26
    ZAHIR said:

    Looks beautiful. Colourfull recipie which sounds really good. I will try soon. Thanks for the recipie.

    February 6, 2013 7:45 am
  • 27
    Janel said:

    This is the most delicious dish I’ve put together in some time – I can’t believe the luscious texture that the tahini sauce takes on when whipped. It was even spectacular without the za’atar, which in the excitement of sprinkling parsley I managed to completely forget; as such it’s slated for a reprise as soon as possible.

    Sassy Radish is DEFINITELY my new favorite food blog, by the way – I’ve spent the better part of Sunday morning bookmarking. Amazing work!!

    February 10, 2013 9:21 am
  • 28
    olga said:

    Janel – thank you so, so much for your kind words! I’m so pleased! And insofar as this dish goes, I’ve made it 3 times since posting (that’s not counting making it before posting) and it’s here to stay!

    February 10, 2013 10:13 am
  • 29

    […] Ottolenghi Here: I cooked a few things from the book already, but blogged only one other: roasted butternut squash and red onion with tahini and za’atar. Needless to say, it’s become one of our […]

    February 20, 2013 12:45 pm
  • 30

    […] those trusted all-stars we seem to cook over and over. The Tuscan kale and pecorino salad, the roasted squash and onion (though lately I’ve been making it with sweet potato and it’s even better!), the midnight […]

    March 11, 2013 12:40 pm
  • 31

    […] up something quickly for dinner to make up for the fail? Cabbage with hot sauce and a fried egg? Roasted butternut squash with red onion (and tahini and za’atar)? And when all else fails, there’s always pasta, […]

    October 24, 2013 7:42 am

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