Tuesday, January 15, 2013

gruyere and pancetta quiche with hash-brown crust

gruyere and pancetta quiche with hash-brown crust

Perhaps, I should mention a few things here to clear the air. One: I’m not a great fan of quiche. I don’t know what it is: the texture, the mushy, damp-tasting crust, the chalky, overcooked custard—none of it works for me. Also this: after decades of cooking, after years and years of cracking a near infinite number of eggs, I still have to do it with both hands. Whenever I see someone casually break open an egg with one hand, I wish I could do it too. But seeing as my hands are child-sized (still), the mechanics of one-handed egg-breaking simply don’t work. Pout.

I was going to write about this quiche some other time, but it’s simply so good amazing that I can’t hold off. The second I tasted the smooth, delicate custard, generously spiked with punchy Gruyere and meaty pancetta, I fell for it hook, line, and sinker. And because I love Andrew so much, I won’t have but just one, two, three more pieces. I can’t just taunt the man with a quiche, and then eat it all for breakfast and lunch, because that’s exactly what’s happening this afternoon.

cooking pancetta wringing dry the potatoes
parchment wrap trimming the parchment

I got the original idea from Martha Stewart, because leave it to Martha to come up with the best idea ever: hash-brown crust. Yes, say it with me: hash-brown crust. How amazing is that? Not only does it save you from pie-crust making endeavors (something I actually enjoy, but requires a bit more planning), but it’s like having latkes baked into your quiche (as if I need another reason to make latkes). And those crispy potato bits that brown on the edges-totally irresistible!

pressing in the crust
11 eggs
11 egg shells

But this is where Martha and I parted ways. I wanted more substance and oomph to my crust. I wanted something meaty and salty. I wanted a punchier cheese than the goat cheese that she originally suggests. I wanted to swap out part of the sour cream for crème fraîche—and did. More than that, I wanted full-fat sour cream—why give up the taste? And finally, but most importantly, I wanted to grate my own potatoes instead of using a bag of frozen hash browns. It took me less time to peel and grate three Russets, by hand (gasp!), than it would’ve taken me to defrost a bag of hash browns. Grating potatoes isn’t exactly a tricky task and it goes by so quickly.

wrapped, like a present!
pretty, browned potato bits!

I rarely feel like I want to shout from the rooftops about what I cooked. I mean, I only write about things I’m wildly enthusiastic about, but this is a home run through and through. My first thought: why didn’t I make this sooner? But here, at home, I cook plenty of things that never make it to the blog – they’re not worth your attention. Last week there was a traditional Tuscan chestnut flour cake that was a total dud. And after doing some research with in-the-know folks, I concluded that I was never going to like that cake (i.e. it wasn’t anything I did, but the way the cake itself is made) so why write about it here? It went into the folder appropriately titled “Never”. So, I won’t go on record and claim it’s the best quiche in the world (after all, we all like different things), but it’s certainly the best one that I’ve tasted, and if I could, I’d invite you all for dinner tonight, because that’s what we’re having this evening. And I can’t wait.

gruyere and pancetta quiche with hash-brown crust
gruyere and pancetta quiche with hash-brown crust

Gruyere and Pancetta Quiche with Hash-Brown Crust

2 tablespoons butter, softened, plus more for the pan
113 grams (4 ounces) pancetta, diced
680 grams (1 1/2 pounds; about 3) Russet potatoes, peeled and coarsely grated
12 large eggs, divided
1 1/2 teaspoons (9 grams) fine sea salt, divided
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
1 cup (227 grams; 8 ounces) full-fat sour cream
1/2 cup (113 grams; 4 ounces) crème fraîche
80 grams (2 3/4 ounces; about 2/3 packed cup) shredded Gruyere cheese
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees F (click here for Celcius, etc.); position the rack in the middle. Butter a 9×2-inch springform pan. Cut a piece of parchment paper that is long enough to go all the way around, inside the pan (I usually just wrap the paper around the pan until I get it all the way around), and cut that piece of parchment in half lengthwise. Save one half for the next time you make this quiche (because you’ll make it again, trust me). Take the other half of the parchment and press it all the way around, inside the pan, until it goes all the way around. If the parchment piece is too tall and towers over the sides of the pan, using scissors, trim the parchment around so it’s the same height as the springform. Butter the inside of the parchment as well and, if needed, press the parchment against the sides again (sometimes it gets loose).

2. In a medium skillet set over medium heat, cook pancetta until slightly browned, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

3. Place potatoes in a cheesecloth or a thin (not terrycloth) kitchen towel and wring out the excess moisture; transfer the potatoes to a large bowl. In a small bowl, lightly beat 1 egg and add it to the potatoes, along with 2 tablespoons of butter, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Mix the ingredients until combined. Transfer the potato mixture to the springform and distribute it across the bottom and the sides of the pan, pressing on it with moistened fingers. Using your smallest dry measuring cup, moistened on the bottom (I have 1/8 cup measure but 1/4 cup one will do fine) press the potato crust down. Transfer the springform to a shallow baking pan and place in the oven. Bake the crust 15 to 20 minutes or until set.

4. While the crust bakes, rinse out your bowl where you mixed the potatoes, and dry it. Don’t bother thoroughly washing it – you’ll be using it now. In this bowl, add the sour cream, crème fraîche, reserved pancetta, Gruyere, and the remaining salt and pepper, and whisk until combined. Whisk in remaining 11 eggs and parsley until the mixture is uniform. Pour the filling into the crust and transfer to the oven. Bake 40 to 50 minutes or until set (you can gently take or shake the pan – and if the filling jiggles slightly in the middle but not on the sides, which should be pulling away a bit, then the quiche is done). The potato edges of the quiche will be a nice, deep brown, and the top of the quiche should have a chestnut brown color as well. Let cool 15 minutes before unmolding; peel off waxed paper. Serve either warm or at room temperature, ideally with this salad.

Serves 6 to 8

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32 Comments

  • 1

    LOVE the photos of the eggs!!!

    January 15, 2013 12:54 pm
  • 2
    Diana said:

    I’m not a big fan of quiche either for the same reasons you described (bland, soggy) but this looks really, really good. Thick, savory crust with oomph? Count me in! Going to try this soon!

    January 15, 2013 1:05 pm
  • 3
    Adrienne said:

    You had me at hash brown crust. Seriously. I cannot WAIT to make this.

    January 15, 2013 1:05 pm
  • 4
    Sarah said:

    That is one serious stunner of a quiche. It sounds amazing—I, too, am not a huge quiche fan, so this looks like the perfect remedy to that. Hope you’re well—S

    January 15, 2013 1:36 pm
  • 5
    Cary said:

    Hash brown crust, yes perfect! Did I miss how many eggs you added to the potato crust? Was it 1 and the other 11 are the filling? Thanks!

    January 15, 2013 1:59 pm
  • 6
    Whitney said:

    Well I love a really good quiche and man this looks AMAZING. Maybe the first task in my new! kitchen! (Husband and I just moved to our first condo this weekend)

    January 15, 2013 2:06 pm
  • 7
    Naomi said:

    This sounds fabulous! I’ll definitely have to make this but with another cheese — my bf can’t do gruyere or Swiss-type cheeses (allergic?) but Parmesan type is okay. Go figure. Any suggestion for alternate cheese in your version of the recipe?

    Also, for those that may not read-ahead all of the recipe steps, you may want to clarify step 3 to explicitly say “beat one egg” so they don’t use all 12 here. It’s not until much later that 11 of the 12 are used in the custard part. I know, you’re making a quiche so it should be obvious, but some people follow directions blindly…

    January 15, 2013 2:29 pm
  • 8
    Ashley said:

    Sounds and looks absolutely delicious! Martha has some genius moments, like hash brown crust (!). But I love your twists – gruyere and pancetta? Fresh potatoes? Yum!

    Also, you strawberry rhubarb banana bread with dark rum is one of my all time favorite breads to make in winter, though I usually swap rum for bourbon. I’m even making one this week.

    January 15, 2013 2:31 pm
  • 9
    Margaret said:

    It sounds really yummy, but if I may, I suggest rewording the ingredient list and/or directions to make it clear that one (1) egg is used in the crust and the others are used for the filling. I initially thought that ALL the eggs were mixed with the potatoes, until I re-read the whole thing and compared the steps to the ingredient list.

    January 15, 2013 2:49 pm
  • 10

    Bravo for posting about this. Confession: I love quiche. All types. But I don’t think I’ve ever seen one as gorgeous as your lovely little number there. I both thank you and curse you for that. Because I now have to make it …

    January 15, 2013 4:24 pm
  • 11
    olga said:

    Margaret & others – thank you for asking for the clarification. I have made the appropriate changes (I hope!) and all should be well?

    January 15, 2013 8:02 pm
  • 12
    Naomi said:

    Okay, I just made this. Don’t know how it taste yet (cooling) but it looks great!

    Another clarification on the recipe, though. Is the butter (2 TBS plus more for the pan) ALL for the pan? The reason I ask is that I don’t see butter referenced anywhere except in buttering the pan, but usually when butter is listed in the ingredient list as “X TBS plus more for th pan” the X TBS part is for the actual item and the plus part is for the pan …

    Or did I miss something?

    January 15, 2013 8:08 pm
  • 13
    olga said:

    Naomi – fixed – you add it to the potato crust. My apologies for the omission (this is what happens when you’re in a rush!)

    January 15, 2013 8:23 pm
  • 14
    judith said:

    made the curry dish last night with leftover pasturized chicken. it was pretty darn good. next time MORE curry paste!
    this,however,looks like a project.
    am going to definately make it!

    January 16, 2013 11:07 am
  • 15
    Tamar said:

    Any suggestions for a substitute for the pancetta to make it vegetarian? Mushrooms?

    January 16, 2013 3:57 pm
  • 16
    Geoff said:

    You realize, of course, after hearing you exult about this dish, I went home and had Quorn for dinner, right? Cruel. Very cruel. And looks and sounds incredible.

    January 16, 2013 4:13 pm
  • 17
    olga said:

    Tamar – mushrooms would be a great substitute, but I’d saute and season them first before adding to the quiche.

    Geoff – you should’ve come over for dinner :) A little pancetta never hurt anyone, in my opinion.

    January 16, 2013 6:34 pm
  • 18
    whimsy2 said:

    You wrote “heat the oven to 357.” I assume you meant 375?

    January 16, 2013 6:34 pm
  • 19

    Olga — it’s gorgeous. That potato crust is such a clever idea. I’ll be making this soon!

    January 16, 2013 10:48 pm
  • 20
    olga said:

    Whimsy2 – yes, fixed, thanks!

    January 17, 2013 8:08 am
  • 21
    ileana said:

    I’ve never been big on quiches either, but my boyfriend is. Now I know what we’re having for breakfast on his upcoming birthday!

    January 18, 2013 8:12 am
  • 22
    kickpleat said:

    I love quiche of all stripes – my mom made them often and I always associate them with her. This one is spectacular, I’ve never seen one with such high loftiness! Lovely, Olga.

    January 18, 2013 12:58 pm
  • 23

    Mind = blown. This looks amazing.

    January 19, 2013 7:56 pm
  • 24

    […] quiche with a hashbrown crust? Sign me […]

    January 20, 2013 3:29 pm
  • 25

    I too am often disappointed by quiche, but when it’s good, it’s a special thing. I am so sorry it’s taken me this long to check out this recipe. I saw it last week and it sounded amazing. Now that I’ve finally seen it, I know it won’t be long before I have to try it.

    January 21, 2013 4:02 am
  • 26
    Katie said:

    Sounds divine! I can’t wait to make this.

    January 22, 2013 11:01 pm
  • 27
    Heidi said:

    ooo this looks amazing! I’m going to have to try it ASAP! thanks for the share :)

    January 23, 2013 10:42 pm
  • 28

    […] Three Cheese and Spinach Quiche with Hash Brown Crust Inspired by Sassy Radish […]

    January 26, 2013 10:15 am
  • 29

    […] but it’s trumps going out for brunch each and every time. You can make things like gravlax and a quiche, and you can serve the most ridiculously delicious scones. With some homemade ricotta, bread from […]

    February 10, 2013 1:49 pm
  • 30

    Olga, this looks unreal! I was just introduced to Martha’s glorious hash brown crust quiche and posted about it on my blog. You give me the courage to try mixing and matching filling ingredients. The options are so wonderfully infinite. I’m thinking a creamy Gorgonzola/sun dried tomato filling topped with fresh arugula might be the next thing to try in this amazing hash brown crust!

    March 27, 2013 10:45 am
  • 31
    Julio said:

    I just put it into the oven!

    I will check back and report on the results as soon as I try it.

    August 11, 2013 7:09 pm
  • 32
    Jen said:

    I made this for Christmas brunch this year and it was a hit. Everyone loved it even the guy who hadn’t ever eaten quiche because he held to the belief that “real men don’t eat quiche”. His mind is firmly changed now. Thank you for the great recipe!

    December 29, 2013 5:31 pm

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