Monday, October 18, 2010

London Recap

We are not grouse people. Seems like a strange way to start off our London trip recap, but here it is. We tried it, and we’ve decided it’s just not for us. This is strange for me to write because it’s so rare that I try something new and absolutely, without any doubt, dislike it. The feeling back at the restaurant was much stronger at the time. I wanted to do the five-year old thing and push the plate away from me, fold my arms across my chest, and shake my head side to side. I didn’t want to take another bite. I didn’t want to try it with wine, or with the parsnip puree on which it rested. I simply wanted to eat around it, push it from side to side on my plate and create the illusion that I made a dent in the meat. I certainly didn’t look forward to finishing a whole plate of it. There it was. Grouse. Staring back at me. Pink and tender and gamy. But Andrew was sitting across from me, fork and knife in hand, looking rather pleased with his grouse, and our friends were happy digging into their lamb. So I said nothing, and just took another bite. It wasn’t until Andrew and I tucked ourselves in for the night that we confessed to one another – we thought grouse was lousy.

be alert!

It’s hard to write a recap days after our trip. It seems so far away – like a distant memory. And yet – so vivid. England, I miss you – you’ve captured my heart. We went during some kind of alert advisory. The US State Department was urging its citizens to be alert. So we were. We stayed vigilant and aware of our surroundings. We were encouraged by the signs as well.


London offers so much to anyone who is willing to explore it. The famed Borough Market overwhelmed our senses. The cheeses, the charcuteries, pies, sandwiches, game, jams, juice – it was all around us. Crowded, loud, full of smells and sights as a busy market should be. It’s the kind of place that no matter who you talk to, everyone is so proud of what they’re offering. The mozarella in my prociutto sandwich was the freshest I’ve tasted in awhile, and I almost got tears in my eyes – it was creamy, tangy, with a slight chewiness, before it dissolved in my mouth in a creamy cloud. It was as if I had imagined that bite, as if it didn’t happen. So I took another bite, and then another, until it was gone.


We saw old friends, walked through many parks, and reveled in the most incredible weather. It didn’t rain a single day while we were in England. Meanwhile, New York was getting soaked, and Brooklyn was getting some hail. We were blessed not only with sunny days, but sunny warm days. When I just threw on a light blazer over a t-shirt, leaving my scarf and warm coat behind. No umbrellas, no trench coats. Just camera, backpack, and a map. No plans set besides where to eat – it was good just to take long walks and get a little lost in the city, find freshly made churros, and watch a kid on a leash chase pigeons.

And of course, what is London without endless cups of tea, scones, clotted cream, more tea, more scones, cake, and a macaron or two? We felt indulgent – it was our vacation, after all – and I couldn’t get enough of the English clotted cream. The US version isn’t the same.


We stayed in Marylebone with wonderful, generous friends, who have a guest-room. They might as well be running a B&B out of their home because they catered to our every need, down to the Oyster Cards they loaned us for use in the city. And I was smitten with the quiet charm of Marylebone – it’s got the best of both worlds being both central and residential. So much of central London is heavily tourist-oriented, that you get somewhat overwhelmed. And though I am no stranger to the Times Square pedestrian traffic, it is precisely because I am so exposed to it, that I wanted to avoid it as much as possible. On Sundays, Marylebone’s farmer’s market takes place, and it’s a thing of beauty. There are gourmet prepared foods, butchers, fishmongers, cheese mongers, local produce, baked goods, and stunning, lush flowers. I wanted to find out everyone’s story, how they got started in their trade, what their life was like. I wanted to go and spend a day with each of the vendors, get a feel for how their days were like.


And other days while taking a walk along the Thames, on a beautiful, sunny day, we encountered dogs in funny outfits, retro food trucks, bright graffiti, and sand sculpting.


And then we proceeded with your day by getting lost in Notting Hill while looking for a well-loved restaurant. When I say lost, I don’t mean that in a romantic sense of getting lost. I mean – really getting lost. As in you have nary an idea of how to get to your destination and all you can do is just go back to the starting point. And while retracing our steps, tired, hungry, having walked all day long, Andrew (whom I had roped into this search) in a stroke of brilliance, actually figured out a way. We found ourselves standing in front of Ottolenghi, a little nervous if the hype would match the experience. It did. And then some. It was exceptional – everything was fresh, lush, flavorful. The spices were nuanced, balanced, expertly picked. And the cupcake we split just might be the best cupcake I’ve ever tasted – lemon blueberry – with a lemon flavor so bright, it’s like a thousand lemons were compressed into one single cupcake.


And everywhere we turned, we found a lovely, thoughtful meal. Something that nurtured the body and the soul. And everywhere we ate, people who worked there, were beaming with pride for the work they do, the quality of their offerings, the gentle attention they bestow on their customers. They could tell us, to the most minute detail, how the dish was prepared (step by step), where it was sourced, and why it was made a certain way.

dinner here was lovely
at fernandez and wells

We wanted more time to walk this magnificent, historic city. We wanted to find more quirky details and soak them in. Decorative finishes on buildings, mosses growing in between concrete tiles, funny artifacts in museums. We wanted more of these elusive details. Things that skip your eye when you’re seeing something for the first time, but things you notice along the way, that make moments unforgettable and filled with beauty.


please read this - you'll thank me later

And we wanted more time in Whitstable and Cantenbury, small, historic towns in Kent. More time in lush, English gardens. More time to sit on benches. More time to spend with Andrew’s family friends – who so were so generous and hospitable, taking time not only to show us around the area, feed us most stunning fish and chips with mushy peas, but also drop us off at Heathrow, a trip so far out of their way, that we can’t thank them enough.

cooking apples

And just like that, in a blink of an eye, we were settling into our seats en route back home. It was marvelous and, as all good trips go, all too short. Writing about it feels like a distant event, when, in reality, we haven’t even been back for a week. I had plans to smuggle in some English butter and just plain forgot. By the time I remembered, the plane was circling over Heathrow, reaching higher and higher into the sky. To my right, Andrew was observing our ascent. In my hand was a Virgin care pack with the famed socks. I looked through my wallet and found a few twenty pound notes. I looked back at Andrew. Great food, wonderful friends, leftover money, forgotten butter – it could only mean one thing – we’d just have to come back. And soon.

Some places we visited and loved:
Arbutus
Ottolenghi
Magdalen
The River Cafe
Fernandez & Wells

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21 Comments

  • 1
    Emily said:

    Aw, your gentleman Andrew is quite the cutie! And you have quite the collection of absolutely gorgeous photographs from this trip. My travel bug is starting to act up, thanks to this post!

    October 18, 2010 12:54 pm
  • 2

    Lovely post, and it sounds as though you had the perfect stay. I’m quite jealous of the meal at Ottolenghi, and you have me craving a blueberry lemon cupcake that tastes of a thousand lemons. The story about the grouse is fabulous as well (and a great start to the post) – at least you were willing to try! Welcome home!

    October 18, 2010 1:14 pm
  • 3
    meg said:

    Oh London…how I love London! Beautiful post capturing so many of the wonderful things about London. It is my favorite city to just walk in….destination unknown.
    I also am now craving that cupcake!

    October 18, 2010 1:37 pm
  • 4
    Christine said:

    You know, I’ve been hankering to make a lemon cupcake filled with some not quite set blueberry jam my sister made…Now I think I’ll have to head out to buy some ingredients. YUM.

    And that picture, with the canal, or stream, and the houses? swoon. Where is that? It’s beautiful and I want to live there. I claim the house on the left, with the window boxes.

    October 18, 2010 3:14 pm
  • 5
    Radish said:

    Christine – that’s Canterbury! And that house is 500 years old or so! I bet you someone claimed it already :) But we can dream!

    October 18, 2010 3:20 pm
  • 6
    Colin said:

    What a wonderful recap, love the photos! Your grouse experience reminds me of the first time I tried salt cod, in Glasgow. The Borough Market is overwhelming, but in the way one wants to be overwhelmed. This makes me want to go visit my sister again, who now lives in Wales. I miss English scones.

    October 18, 2010 4:53 pm
  • 7

    My brother lives in London, and my little sister is currently visiting him. It’s been several years since I’ve explored the city, and so I enjoyed visiting again through your words and lens!

    October 18, 2010 4:57 pm
  • 8

    Beautiful pics. And now I’m curious about grouse!

    October 18, 2010 7:55 pm
  • 9

    Beautiful, beautiful recap, Olga! The photos, the writing: ah-freakin’ mazing! What a trip! I see photos of Europe and I cannot help but drool over its beauty. One of these days, hopefully, I’ll be sharing a post from a trip to Europe, and when I do- I’ll sneak over some Macarons from France. You know, to share with people. Hehe ;)

    October 18, 2010 9:33 pm
  • 10
    kickpleat said:

    Aw what a cute face that boy of yours has! Sounds like a fantastic trip. We went to London a few years ago but were super broke so we didn’t do much eating. Would love to go back, but for now I’m content to look at photos.

    October 18, 2010 11:05 pm
  • 11

    London is one of my favorite cities and fell in love with it on the first visit years ago. I enjoyed each one of your photos! What a brilliant trip – thank you for sharing with eveyone!

    October 19, 2010 2:23 am
  • 12
    Nicole said:

    I am insanely jealous! I’ve wanted to visit England forever and I look forward to the day I finally can and will take your lovely tips. Beautiful pictures :)

    October 19, 2010 11:26 am
  • 13
    Tara said:

    Do let me know next time you’re here – would love to see you.
    x Tara

    October 19, 2010 1:03 pm
  • 14
    Radish said:

    Tara – absolutely. I hadn’t realized you were in London until the day before the trip and it was all booked pretty much. I felt so so badly, but next time I definitely will let you know. Are you coming to NYC anytime soon?

    October 19, 2010 1:11 pm
  • 15

    I adore England, and I always staunchly defend English food, which has the capability to be glorious, as you’ve so ably captured.

    October 19, 2010 3:40 pm
  • 16

    This has definitely made me realize how much of England I still need to go explore! ;) How lovely..

    October 19, 2010 5:10 pm
  • 17
    Sarah said:

    wonderful recap of your trip, I loved my visit to Borough market, its what I remembered the most from my trip (I could have stayed there the entire time). great pictures.

    October 20, 2010 11:33 am
  • 18

    Wow, amazing pics. I visted London, pre Ottolenghi days… Wish I could go again.
    Oh, well, when the kids grow up…

    October 20, 2010 2:39 pm
  • 19
    Jessica said:

    Beautiful photos! It looks like you had a wonderful time! Next time you go, add the Anchor and Hope to your list of good, reasonably priced food. And I suggest going there with a group of 4+ as their dishes for groups are delicious (don’t forget their ice cream too!) Small wait in the pub half while you wait for your table, but wonderfully jubilant atmosphere.
    http://www.urbanpath.com/london/gastro-pubs/the-anchor-and-hope.htm

    November 6, 2010 1:33 pm
  • 20
    Nathalie said:

    The city I live in! It’s nice to see it through somebody’s eyes… my view, at times, can be tainted by the long and busy commute and the expense of everything. But those photos made me remember why I love it too. Thank you for sharing.

    November 15, 2010 9:10 am
  • 21

    [...] numerous, we do know one of the many ingredients that the salad contained – grouse. Given our last grouse experience, I doubt I’ll be adding it to my [...]

    April 4, 2011 10:17 am

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