Tuesday, July 6, 2010

blueberry strawberry pie

blueberry strawberry pie

I am a girl who loves a good fruit pie. I can think so nothing more delicious in the summer, and I love making it almost as much as I love eating it. But, I have a bone to pick with fruit pies because they are finicky and temperamental in the summer months. My biggest gripe is that the best time of the year to make fruit pies is also the most challenging. If you’ve ever made your own crust, you know crust’s two mortal enemies are heat and humidity, and guess what New York summers are known for? Meanwhile, farmers’ markets are brimming with the most ripe, fragrant fruit begging to be eaten, canned, and turned out in baked goods. Other than enjoying summer’s bounty as nature intended, what more glorious way is there to showcase fruit at the peak of its season than baking it into a pie? Never mind that you dread turning on your oven when temperatures cross into the triple digits, as you yourself slowly cook in your tiny urban apartment. So when the pie is baked – so are you.

flying pigs farm rendered lardscraper, rolling pin, pie dish, iced coffee

And yet to me, despite the heat and the sweat, the process of making pie is one of life’s greatest pleasures. I love to see the dough, crumbly and speckled with pea-sized pieces of butter come together, love shaping the pie crusts into disks and chilling them. Love to prepare the fruit: pit the cherries, hull the strawberries, blanch the peaches. Love to flour my counter and roll out the dough out and place it into the pie dish. But nothing gives me more glee and jubilation than piling the fruit into the pie shell, seeing it tower before my eyes.

an almost perfect circle

Fruit pies offer a taste of summer, a burst of sunshine topped by a sugary, flaky, buttery crust. Crust is key to a good pie, in my opinion. But with fruit pies, you often face a soggy bottom – the upside of a fruit pie is also its downside. And I used to think, such is the way of the world. I had to just make do and carry on. But there’s a genius solution in place – pre-baking your bottom crust! It’s genius, really, and you can kiss those soggy bottom crusts goodbye.

blueberries, strawberries, thyme

A solution came my way in the form of a book and a New York Times article almost simultaneously. I was lucky enough to receive a review copy of Bill Yosses’ and Melissa Clark’s new book, “The Perfect Finish: Special Desserts for Every Occasion”. I leafed through the entire book the night it arrived in the mail, and there wasn’t a single thing I didn’t want to make, but a recipe for a pie crust caught my eye first. I’ve been a long-time fan of Bill Yosses, the executive pastry chef at the White House; and Melissa Clark’s recipes and I go way way back. I’ve been inexplicably drawn to her recipes, not just for the New York Times, but for other publications like Food & Wine. I have, on many an occasion, clicked on tempting recipes only to discover that they have been written by her. When I saw the method for pre-baking crust, and then saw the New York Times sour cherry pie recipe, I knew that I was never again going to have a soggy crust in my pies. Hurray! I want to twirl around the room in jubilation!

blueberry strawberry pie

Pre-baking is the bees knees! So ingenious I’m sad I didn’t think of it myself. It makes absolute perfect sense and is worth the extra time spent in the kitchen. You can pour yourself one of these and read a book, or look out the window, or stick your head in the freezer for a minute to cool off. Whatever you do, you can pass the time swimmingly because it’ll be well worth the extra effort.

blueberry strawberry pie

I bet there aren’t any disagreements over wanting a flaky bottom crust. So we’ve got that going for us, right? Now that the matter is settled, let’s move on to the content of the crust. There’s some debate out there, an each option with its own fervent following: all-butter, butter-with-shortening, or butter-with-leaf lard? My own personal preference (at this point) is tied between an all-butter and a butter-leaf-lard crust, between which I will alternate depending on my mood and if I have access to quality leaf lard. No matter which recipe you go with, you want to find the best quality butter around. Better butter means higher fat content. Higher the fat content means a flakier crust. It’s that simple.

blueberry strawberry pie

Whatever method you choose to go with for your crust, you will want to work quickly, be it cutting your butter into flour (in a pre-chilled bowl, of course!), shaping your dough into disks, or rolling it out. You have a few minutes between the too-hard-and-crumbly dough and too-warm-and-tearing dough; and overworking the pastry releases the dreaded glutens, diminishing your crust’s flakiness. I am not trying to frighten you, my lovelies, but instead give you as much information and ammunition to tackle this perfect-time-for-pie-but-it’s-too-hot-to-make-it conundrum. Knowledge is power, and I know you will do beautifully. But most importantly, I want you to not be afraid. Worst case, if your pie refuses to roll out, you can gently press pieces of it into the pie dish and then when you are ready to top your pie with the second crust, you can use a cookie-cutter to shape crust circles and lay them on top (another genius Melissa Clark idea). Which will save you the possible aggravation and yield a rather pretty pie. And you will get points for taste and looks. Bonus.

blueberry strawberry pie

Then you can kick back and pretend the whole thing was completely effortless, because neither heat, nor humidity got anything on you. You can totally reward yourself with a slice of pie, because you earned it, friend. Just be sure to share some with me.

blueberry strawberry pie

Blueberry Strawberry Pie
Crust adapted from “The Perfect Finish: Special Desserts for Every Occasion” by Bill Yosses and Melissa Clark and from NY Times piece by Melissa Clark

Ingredients:

Crust:
20 tbsp (283 grams) unsalted butter, chilled and cubed (use high fat butter like Plugra)
7 tablespoons (100 grams) heavy cream
3 tablespoons (40 grams)rendered lard (or use more butter)
3 3/4 cups (469 grams) all-purpose flour, plus additional for rolling the dough
1 tablespoons (12.5 grams) granulated suga
1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt

Filling:
8 cups blueberries and strawberries (mixed)
1 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme
freshly squeezed lemon juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
1/4 cup (57 grams) packed light brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon (7 grams) creme de cassis
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 large egg white (28 grams), room temperature, lightly beaten (if using a traditional crust on top and not cutting out circles)
1 1/2 teaspoons Demerara or granulated sugar
1/4 cup (45 grams) cornstarch

Preparation:

For the crust:

Pre-chill a stand mixer beforehand. Once cold, place butter, cream and lard. Beat on low with a paddle attachment until smooth. In another bowl, thoroughly mix together flour, sugar and salt. Add about a third of the flour mixture to the butter mixture and beat on low until the mixture comes together like a fairly wet dough. Add the remaining flour and mix until the dough just begins to come together. Once that happens, turn the dough out on a floured surface and knead gently into a small ball. Divide the ball in half, wrap each half in plastic wrap and flatten into disks. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight (or up to 3 days).

For the filling:

In a large bowl, toss together blueberries, cut-up strawberries and thyme. Add lemon juice, sugars, salt, creme de cassis and vanilla extract. Set aside to macerate for about half an hour.

After the half hour passes, add the cornstarch and mix it until it completely dissolves. Set aside.

Assembling and Baking the Pie:

On a lightly floured surface, roll out one of the disks of dough to a 1/4-inch thickness and fold it in half. Then re-roll to a round about 12 inches in diameter and the thickness of about 2 quarters. This thickness will give you the layers of flakiness you so desire in your pie dough, particularly the bottom part. Transfer the dough to a Pyrex 9-inch pie pan (or a dark steel pie pan), and trim the edges so they are even with the rim of the pie pan. [Pyrex is particularly useful here as it allows you to see the doneness of the bottom crust due to its transparency.] Cover the dough with plastic wrap you used in chilling this disk, and place in the freezer for 1 hour.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 425F. Remove the pie pan from the freezer and line the dough with aluminum foil on top, delicately pressing it to form to the shape of the pan. Place the baking beads, dried beans, or uncooked rice (or lentils, etc.) on top of the foil. Bake for 30 minutes and allow to cool on a cooling rack afterward. After the pie cooled off, preheat the oven again to 350F.

While your shell is baking, roll out the second disk of dough. Using cookie cutters (I used the circle ones of various sizes) cut out a bunch of circles from the rolled out dough. Place on a baking rack and refrigerate until ready to decorate the top.

Pour the berry filling into the pre-baked pie shell. Place your pie dough circles on top of the pie, starting in the center and filling out to the outer sides. Make a pattern pleasing to your eye. I liked placing my circles slightly atop their neighbor circles to create some kind of a cohesion. I used tiny circles to fill in some gaps. When done with the top of the pie, sprinkle some Demerara sugar on top of the pie.

[If you prefer a traditional pie topping, you can, instead, roll out the pie shell and create a traditional pie crust topping. Be sure to slice a few vents on top to allow the pie to breathe. If you do make a traditional topping, then be sure to use the whipped egg white as glue for your pie crust top. Brush the edges of the pre-baked shell with the egg white before placing your rolled out raw shell on top.]

Bake for 1 hour, on an aluminum foil covered rimmed 11 x 17 inch baking sheet on the center rack until the pie is deeply golden and you can see the thick juices bubbling through the openings.

Let cool before serving as it allows the starch to set a bit and give the pie some structure. Otherwise, your pie will ooze and fall apart when you are trying to serve it. While it’s the pie’s taste we are all most concerned with, it is a great feeling of accomplishment to be able to serve the pie to your guests where the slice has great structure and holds its shape.

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31 Comments

  • 1

    This is a great post. I have an irrational fear of making pie crust and you gave some great tips.

    July 6, 2010 1:56 pm
  • 2
    Radish said:

    Cookin’ Canuck – don’t be afraid, seriously, pie crusts smell fear. Here are more tips on crust and summer pie baking! Go conquer the crust! :)

    July 6, 2010 2:01 pm
  • 3
    Allison said:

    I love making pies too! There’s something so satisfying and soothing about the whole process. I made a pie the other day in my tiny little, too-hot kitchen, and I had the same thought about how the best fruits are available when it’s way to bloody hot out! I guess it just makes them that much more worth it though. :)

    July 6, 2010 2:48 pm
  • 4
    Maddie said:

    Thyme in the filling! Never would’ve thought of it, but it sounds great. Thanks for your tutorial and soothing words…I’ve got a bunch of berries chilling in my freezer, and now I’ve become convinced they’re destined for pie. :)

    July 6, 2010 3:45 pm
  • 5
    Maggie said:

    Glorious! That’s just mouthwatering!

    July 6, 2010 6:14 pm
  • 6

    Wonderful!!!! can´t wait to try it out and thyme??? what a great idea!!!!

    July 7, 2010 3:39 am
  • 7
    Jennie said:

    What a lovely looking pie, and that combo of strawberries and blueberries is genius. Now, where exactly did you hide that piece under my doorstep? I can’t seem to find it anywhere…

    July 7, 2010 4:56 am
  • 8
    Jessi said:

    Looks superb!!! A perfect Summer Pie! I’ll have to make this one soon:)

    July 7, 2010 5:03 am
  • 9
    Radish said:

    Jennie – I’m so sorry, but we were such pigs, we ate it all! :(

    July 7, 2010 5:32 am
  • 10

    So pretty! I love what you did with the crust on top, very cool. Going to try out the thyme in my next pie…

    July 7, 2010 10:27 am
  • 11

    This pie looks beautiful! So much color – and I love the idea of herbs in fruity pie. Your top ‘crust’ is great – the juices bubbling out are just perfect!

    July 7, 2010 7:15 pm
  • 12
    redmenace said:

    I agree with you on just about everything. First, fruit pies are the BEST. I would happily give up birthday if someone agreed to make me a lemon pie. Second, pre-baking a crust is definitely the way to go if you don’t want to end up with a soggy mess. Finally, and this isn’t really up for discussion, your pie looks gorgeous. I love your creative crust on top. Lovely!

    July 7, 2010 7:20 pm
  • 13
    Allison said:

    Hi again! I hope you don’t mind, but I put a link to this post on my blog about pie! Here’s a link to the page: http://butterpluscream.blogspot.com/2010/07/piesignment-2-allisons-three-berry-pie.html

    July 7, 2010 7:39 pm
  • 14
    Dana said:

    Blind baking is the way to go if trying to attain the difficult to find flaky bottom crust. Just remember to poke fork holes in the bottom so it doesn’t dome up and reduce the space left for the filling.

    I love that there was thyme in your pie. Sounds like a great use!

    July 8, 2010 12:31 am
  • 15
    Shaheen said:

    Your pie looks gorgeous, Olga. I love the addition of thyme. So unusual.

    July 8, 2010 5:55 am
  • 16
    Radish said:

    Dana – thanks! Poking holes isn’t necessary though, since your crust has foil and baking beads on top of them. There’s enough weight to keep it down! Can’t hurt though.

    Everyone – thanks for your lovely comments!!

    July 8, 2010 8:10 am
  • 17
    Gabi said:

    I unfortunately also suffer from an irrational fear of pie crusts. I was at this amazing place in Maine called Pie in the Sky and admitted to using pre-baked crusts and the owner gave me an interesting tip. He said to add an acid, like apple cider vinegar. Have you every tried something like that?

    And I love that your obsession with thyme has found its way into a pie! People don’t realize that herbs can make fruit so much better.

    July 8, 2010 9:52 pm
  • 18

    [...] pure bliss coming from the inferno that New York has been this past week. As has been noted by more than one blogger, the east coast (and the midwest) has been suffering from quite a heat wave. It hit 103 [...]

    July 8, 2010 11:01 pm
  • 19
    Radish said:

    Gabi – thyme is going to make a comeback in another thing I made last weekend. Yes, I am obsessed. Also: no, I haven’t tried an acid, but my crust has been working for me quite well. Both in all-butter and butter-lard combination. How would you add it? Is it in lieu of water? I will research this.

    July 9, 2010 8:46 am
  • 20

    Wow, I passed up the loveliest, tiny blueberries at the union square greenmarket just now and I am kicking myself! I hope they’re still there when I get off work…thanks for the inspiration!

    July 9, 2010 2:45 pm
  • 21
    kickpleat said:

    I need all the pie crust tips I can get. This pie looks amazing!

    July 11, 2010 2:32 pm
  • 22

    [...] I could really spend a lifetime celebrating eternal summer with corn on the cob, lobster rolls and blueberry pie. Oh, and potato salad. Because what summer potluck is complete without [...]

    July 14, 2010 2:13 pm
  • 23
    Amanda said:

    I can think of nothing more satisfying than a slice of fruit pie with a dollop of vanilla ice cream during these summer months. All the sweat and complaints melt away with that first bite.

    July 18, 2010 6:11 pm
  • 24

    “So when the pie is baked, so are you”—best line ever. Made me smile and, oh, how I can relate. While I’ve made many a tart, muffin, and hand pie this summer I haven’t yet made a good old fashioned pie. That will change soon. Thanks for the inspiration :)

    July 18, 2010 10:07 pm
  • 25

    [...] the oven to 200 degrees F, and puttered around the kitchen busying myself with potato salad and pie until the ribs were done and ready for our plates. We ate them in a pinch with only a few ribs left [...]

    July 19, 2010 10:21 am
  • 26

    Well, a picture paints a thousand words. I have been a bit too busy to visit your blog lately, but I have been watching the mouthwatering photos in my reader. This did it. I am a baked fruit pie, buckle and crisp kind-a-gal myself, and your peachy things send me spinning. I made poor girl gourmet Amy McCoy’s blueberry crumble for a 4th of July party… so I need a new fruity treat for my nephew’s first birthday. I think this looks like the ticket. My, oh my. Thank you Sassy. I will give it a whirl.
    xo Michaela

    July 22, 2010 4:50 pm
  • 27

    [...] eventually, root vegetables. And I’m excited for it all, but I know, for a fact, that there are a few summer dishes I am going to miss. But this corn – this corn I could eat every [...]

    August 26, 2010 3:27 pm
  • 28

    [...] season for apple cobbler – I’m not so much in the mood for it in the summer months. I want berries and stone fruit and pies. But as soon as I feel that fall chill in the air, and reach for hot [...]

    November 2, 2010 3:25 pm
  • 29

    [...] to be summer and proceed with all kinds of strawberry shenanigans. Last year they were added to a blueberry pie (technically making it strawberry blueberry pie), were introduced to buttermilk granita, and folded [...]

    June 8, 2011 5:35 pm
  • 30
    Frances said:

    Next to the butter ingredient, it says “chilled and ut succubed”. What does that mean? Is it a typo?

    April 5, 2014 5:27 pm
  • 31
    olga said:

    Frances – fixed, thanks for catching!

    April 6, 2014 9:04 am

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