Thursday, December 29, 2005

russian borscht

soup - ready to eat

Sometime mid-week last week, I felt divine inspiration to cook and toss all my daily tasks to the wind. I suspect that sudden burst of energy and desire were prompted more by the chilly weather and gusts of wind than by any deity tapping me on the shoulder with a whisk or a baster. Fondly recollecting my mother’s soups – for she claims the title for best soup-maker – I phoned her to get a recipe for one of my childhood favorites, and thus a Russian standard – borscht.

Many an American has wrinkled his nose when a beet is introduced into a conversation. Growing up in a suburban America, I was always defending root vegetables. Turnips, carrots, beets, radishes. I was labeled a weird eater, an immigrant. And I grew up thinking that not only beets were uncool (albeit tasty), but they were also a form of lower-income diet. Imagine my surprise when my monthly issue of Martha Stewart Living arrived (I must have been the only 16 year old with a MSL subscription) and I found a salad of beets and chevre beautifully displayed as one of the recipes. Either beets were gaining ground or Martha was going back to her Polish roots. Either way, beets broke out of their stigma.

Nowadays you find beets in most prestigious restaurants. They’re in salads, in vegetable arrangements, served as elegant side-dishes. Their deep, rich color and sweet earthy flavor and texture are both filling and surprisingly light. They smell of the earth, of winter and of hearth. And despite their lowly upbringing, they’re quite elegant and sophisticated.

The soup takes a few hours to make if only because you want the flavors to deepen and blend together. It is not a complicated soup to make provided you have patience to chop everything and stir occasionally. When completed and ready to eat, it will warm you up from a cold wintry day and satisfy your hunger. As intense in its flavor as it is hot, borscht really exemplifies Russian cooking – hearty, warm and flavorful.

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Friday, December 23, 2005

Banana Muffins with Vanilla Infusion with a Hint of Cayenne

Warm Muffin

It was over a breakfast discussion of holiday treats that we began a muffin conversation. A coworker lamented about not having a muffin for breakfast and I offered to bring some in the next day. I thought, I’ve not cooked in awhile, and having just made soup the previous day, I was on a bit of a roll, if you can call it that.

After a run for a haircut, I stopped by the grocery store to pick up the baking essentials, and by another store for my muffin baking pan.

I decided to make banana muffins because of how comforting bananas can be in cold weather. The smell of banana bread on a winter morning is enough to get me out of bed. I abstained from putting nuts in it, in case any of my coworkers were allergic to them. And my high hopes of adding cranberries for that extra zing, were dashed when I realized that Christmas-ready shoppers bought up all that the store had. So these are pretty plain-Jane muffins, yummy as they are. Perhaps adding a bit of lemon zest would have done the trick? I think this now, a bit late for this batch, which has already been hungrily consumed by my team, ready for their Christmas to commence.

What I did add was a bit of vanilla extract, because Radish loves all things vanilla and a teeny tiny pinch of cayenne pepper. Trust me, on this.

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Wednesday, December 14, 2005

Travel Where They Feed You

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It was a wonderful time in Dominican Republic with beautiful weather and some much-needed quiet time. We slept in, played tennis, read, swam in the azure ocean and even negotiated souvenir prices! Actually, the BF did that work, while I smiled and played dumb.

The resort itself, Grand Palladium Bavaro (part of the Fiesta Hotels), is clean, well-maintained with pristeen beaches. It’s quiet and peaceful and makes you feel so removed from the everyday and the mundane, that it’s a bit shocking when you’re traveling back to the airport and see “real” life in DR.

What we missed and wanted as much as sleep itself was the food. It was sub-par, to put it gently, at our resort. The fruit was bland, flavorless and unvaried. Any takes for some bruised bananas? The selection of dishes was unexciting, the taste of them even less so, and the presentation downright depressing. I contemplated taking some pictures for you all, but in the end, I decided that it was not a good idea. After all, you want to look at food that makes you salivate, not throw up. The best food item we uncovered there were french fries. Believe it or not, these gave McDonald fries a run for their money. And coffee. The resort made tasty cafe con leche and I, a firmly one-coffee-a-day girl, treated myself to one after every meal and sometimes while I was lounging and the BF played voleyball.

I suppose that it’s hard enough to cook for hundreds of people. To make the food varied and unique, you need to hire more chefs, build out more kitchen-space, purchase premium ingredients in bulk. All this is unlikely to happen at an all-inclusive resort. Unless of course, I am unaware of jewels out there that satisfy you need for rest and your love of food. I’d love to know more if such things exist. It’s hard for me to be convinced to go on vacation where I won’t eat well. I’m more guided by food than museums even though I like those quite a bit.

Friday, December 2, 2005

Radish Needs her R&R

Radish is leaving you for a week to catch up on sleep and eating. I’ll keep a journal of what I eat and should this all-inclusive resort prove worth-while, I’ll recommend it here.

In the meantime, I hope your days are filled with delectable snacks, tasty food, and warm drinks. Happy winter eating!

Thursday, December 1, 2005

porcini barley soup

porcini_mushrooms

Porcini Barley Soup

As soon as colder weather hits, my thoughts turn to comfort foods. Foods that are warm and liquid that make me feel all cozy inside. And what can be more comforting on a cold winter day than a bowl of soup? Mushroom soup to be precise.

I’ve made this soup every Thanksgiving for the last three years. I also tend to make in in the colder fall and winter months. It’s intensely flavored, fragrant and filling soup. People have been known to get seconds and some – thirds. When I was a little girl, it was one of the few things I would always have the appetite to eat. My mother served it to me with a thick slice of black, Russian bread with butter.

This is an old family recipe. I’ve elaborated on it by substituting some shallots for some of the onions. I think it deepens and complements the flavor of the mushrooms and gives the soup a deeper, more complex flavor. My mother, ever so reluctant to have the family recipe altered, agreed with me after tasting my version.

I insist on using only porcini mushrooms for this soup, otherwise the flavor is just not the same. You can find dried porcini mushrooms in specialty stores, or order them online – their dry state does not weaken their flavor. I’ve not encountered fresh ones in the United States, however, back in Russia where I grew up, we feasted on the fresh ones in the summer and fall.

Porcini mushrooms are distinctly flavored with a deep earthy, nutty, almost meaty flavor. It is my absolute favorite mushroom (other than a chanterelle, which gets second place in my book) and can be used to create an absolutely incredible sauce to mashed potatoes. Barley and potatoes add texture to the soup, so don’t skip them. You want stuff in your soup – stuff is very important, and fewer things make a meal more comforting than potatoes.

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