Sunday, November 27, 2005

Thanksgiving – The Dinner Itself

The Turkey Dictator weighs in…

P1010196

The final menu went as follows:

  • Dandelion Salad with Delicata Squash
  • Apple Celery Salad
  • Prosciutto e Melone
  • Porcini Mushroom Soup
  • Roast Turkey with Orange/Apple Cider Reduction
  • Stuffing
  • Mashed Potatoes with Goat Cheese and Caramelized Leeks
  • Sweet Potatoes
  • Roasted Carrots & Parsnips
  • Cranberry Sauce with Lemon Zest
  • Roasted Fennel & Haricots Verts in Lemon-Rosemary Dressing
  • Pumpkin Soufflé Bread Pudding
  • Pumpkin Cheesecake
  • Apple-Cranberry Lattice Top Pie

    In the end, 17 people showed up, last-minute place cards were made, and there was much rejoicing. Yay. The night before, Rob’s sister made tablecloths from the leftover material they had from when they made his 18 foot wide Venetian blind. The red covered tables looked very festive and holiday-like.

    Some of our friends brought some dishes that Rob and I asked them to make. In the process of this whole ordeal, I’ve obtained a new nickname – the Turkey Dictator. I suppose I barked out orders right and left, but my simple justification for it is that I delegate well. That’s management for ya.

    Cooking began the night before. I made the apple-cranberry pie and a few of us worked on the pumpkin soufflé, which turned out to be my absolute favorite thing on the menu. I am making that again really soon!

    I showed up at Rob’s apartment the next morning around 8:30 with coffee and donuts in tow. We immediately started cooking getting the easy things out of the way first.

    The cranberry sauce was a cinch. The very first one Rob’s ever liked and the one that requires very little prep. We blended the cranberries, sugar, lemon zest and some scotch in his super powerful blender and stuffed the ready-made concoction into the fridge. I immediately started upon the mushroom soup, because I wanted to make sure it had hours to develop the flavor.

    Once the soup was on and happily simmering, I turned my attention to the turkey. I’ve already waxed dramatic on the virtues of a kosher turkey. I have, however, forgot to mention that the turkey, no matter if you go kosher, organic, free-range, or all of the above, needs to be fresh. As in never previously frozen. And yes, it is worth paying 3-4 times the cost of the affordable Butterball. I kid you know. This is worth it. Every bite.

    After rubbing the turkey with butter in places I should and shouldn’t (I felt like I was violating the bird) and placing the herbs inside the cavity, I made sure the turkey rested comfortably inside the roasting rack that was places inside the roasting pan. The turkey, weighing in at 22lbs was not an easy bird to transport back and forth. I added a few ingredients to the bottom of the pan and followed Alton Brown’s turkey-preparation instructions. Once I blasted the turkey with a lot of heat to brown the skin and made its breast plate armor, I stuck the thermometer inside its breast (the thickest part), pulled the cord out of the oven, adjusted the temperature and never looked back.

    Until the timer for temperature went off, that is.

    I did not baste a single time. Not once. And you know what? Several people came up to me to tell me this was by far the best, tastiest turkey they’ve ever had. My boyfriend, who is a dark meat aficionado, confessed that for the first time in his life, he had a hard time deciding between the white meat and the dark meat. Everything was moist, juicy and flavorful. I was pretty amazed – and not at my own cooking – but at the fact that by simply getting a quality turkey and following a what has got to be the easiest turkey preparation instructions, I wound up with a winning recipe.

    So while the turkey was roasting and I was forgetting all about it, because I didn’t have to remember to baste, Rob and I got to focus on other dishes, like the stuffing and roasted fennel with haricots verts. And while I hate everything fennel, I had to oblige and accommodate those who actually are crazy enough to like this rather untasty vegetable.

    In the end, the dinner went without a hitch. People stuffed themselves into a stupid oblivion and were lightly groaning by the evening’s end. I would have gladly partied til dawn were it not for having to report to work the next day.

    I’ve recipes to give out. A few are family treasures and some were developed by me in a painstaking fashion. If you want them, drop a comment in here and I’ll give them to you. The mushroom soup, for instance, is a family-old recipe which I’ll share. The exact flavoring for the turkey is coming in the next entry. It’s long rather.

    Here are a few easy ones: cranberry sauce and the apple-celery salad.

    Continue reading Thanksgiving – The Dinner Itself.

  • Tuesday, November 22, 2005

    Turkeys for Thanksgiving – How to Find the One

    and I’ll never ever baste again, guilty feet have got no rhythm…

    So what if this above line makes no sense?

    Turkeys and Thanksgiving. It’s probably the most important decision dinner-wise you can make on this holiday. Probably why cooks everywhere agonize and lose sleep on where they can get the best turkey available to them. Unless of course you’re Raymond’s wife and decide to cook a bass instead of turkey for Thanksgiving (which is crazy, by the way). Across America, those cooking the feast are willing to go to any lengths, financial and emotional, to procure the turkey of their dreams. I’ve known people to dance in order to get their coveted turkey. I’ve know them to bribe their butchers and place orders in August. I’ve seen many an argument on whether one should go organic or kosher or just regular; and whether one should or should not baste the turkey while it’s cooking. No argument is more ardent (turkey-related) or more heated than the age old dilemma – to baste or not to baste.

    First things first. I am adamant about my turkey-selection process. Years of cooking these birds have given me a certain insight into my methods, processes and the end result. For me, it’s kosher or bust. It’s not that I keep kosher (I’ll wax romantic on bacon some day on this site). It’s that kosher turkeys come pre-brined, so you don’t have to do the messy deed. Brining the turkey traps the moisture inside and makes the turkey juicy and tender. Not dry and flaky. You know the turkey you want to have? The way it’s supposed to taste? Well, you can have it and you can taste it too. In real life, and not just in your dreams.

    Yes, organic is nice too. Free range is fantastic. And who can go wrong with a heritage turkey? But for my money (and tastebuds) the kosher turkey takes the top honors. And this is what I’m cooking this upcoming Thursday.

    Now, the basting argument. After multiple recipes and tons of experiments, I have to say that I’ve gone to the dark side. And here is my confession.

    I am not a baster.

    In fact, I religiously follow the instructions according to Alton Brown’s article, who argues that basting is evil, and my turkey comes out perfect every time. And while I think I can hold my own in the kitchen, I’m no Thomas Keller. But Alton’s directions work, beautifully too! You get a moist, juicy, delicious turkey and you don’t have to even baste it.

    The reason basting does work, Brown explains, is that the process is similar to sun-bathing by the pool. A quick dip makes you tan faster, but also dries out and burns your skin. And since skin responds to moisture and heat the same on both turkeys and humans, basting actually dries the turkey out. Hence – evil.

    I know I know – your mother and grandmother are growing pale at the sound of this. No basting? But basting is key! Basting is the way to go! Basting is (here it comes)… TRADITION!!! All true, but look, it was a tradition to put butter on burns (in the olden days) and now look at what we know about butter and burns – baaaad.

    Try the Alton Brown method. Give it a go. If you’re too afraid to mess with the tried-n-true on the holiday where more people get into fights about what they’re having (creatures of habit we are), try it some other time. But do give it a shot and you’ll be amazed and surprised at your results. It’ll transpose you from feeling like a home chef to a professional one. When you cut into the breast and see the juices running and then taste the meat – you won’t even believe you’re eating white meat – traditionally a flavoress, dry and boring piece of the bird.

    Saturday, November 12, 2005

    Cheese & Pâté – From Your Neighborhood Grocer!

    P1010100P1010097P1010102


    It was last weekend that the conversation about duck pâté ensued. The craving for it, the anticipation of the richness in your mouth. We were sitting in a Sea Food restaurant in Boston, when my boyfriend mentioned craving it. Never to be one to stand in the way of unsatisfied cravings, I offered to go pick some up immediately. But a few seconds later, we all agreed that lobster and pate did not quite go together. And so the pâté feast was to be postponed.

    Back in New York on Monday, in anticipation of a nice homemade dinner, I left work at a decent hour to meet my boyfriend en route home. It was right before the meeting place that I passed by Fauchon. The shiny countertops, the alluring glow of lights, the bonbons - I was defenseless against the beckoning dessert (and besides, we needed dessert) and so I hopped in to pick up some Chocolate-Meringue Cake and a Chocolate Eclair. Yes, there’s a theme here!

    Further down, we stopped by Grace’s Market for our delectable treats. Since we wanted more than just duck pâté, we decided to get some soft-ripened cheese and went with a basic, but oh-so-luxurious Brie. Gracie’s cheeses are never tasteless and plasticky, so we were guaranteed a brie that was creamy and flavorful. I had a peppered salami at home, but we needed some bread. After picking up a baguette, our dinner was complete.

    We had long planned to drink a fantastic bottle of a Super Tuscan I once received as a gift, but couldn’t find an occassion. So we decided to randomly pick a night for an Open-That-Bottle Night. The wine review will shortly follow because it was quite something.

    Our dinner was so simple, yet so tasty! Virtually no preparation (unless you count unwrapping, cutting and arranging as preparation) went into it. And yet, it felt so decadent, so satisfying, so civilized. One doesn’t need to cook a meal in order for it to have soul in it. There was something honest about our dinner, and its simplicity made it somehow more comforting. It felt like a real home with a real dinner, despite the fact that everything came wrapped and ready to consume.

    Grace’s Market
    1237 3rd Ave (at 70th Street)
    New York, NY 10021
    (212) 737-0600
    (212) 734-3661

    Friday, November 11, 2005

    Thanksgiving Menu – The Preliminary Version

    kosher turkeys are the bestturkey, all finishedP1010317chestnuts open up when they're roastedP1010302


    It’s slowly coming together. We’ve got 16 people in total attending this feast. And there’s nothing that will stop me from delivering an amazing dinner to my friends.

    I’ve probably mentioned that Thanksgiving is my absolute favorite holiday - a holiday that’s about being with the people you love, all coming together, eating the food and sharing the laughter and the talks. In my mind, there are few things more joyous or life-affirming. No one worrying about presents, no one stressed out by anyone’s expectations – a true celebration!

    The Menu:

  • Arugula Salad with Pomegranate & Toasted Pecans
  • Prosciutto e Melone
  • Porcini Mushroom Soup
  • Roast Turkey with Orange/Apple Cider Reduction
  • 2 Kinds of Stuffing (TBD)
  • Mashed Potatoes with Goat Cheese and Sage
  • Sweet Potatoes (TBD)
  • Butternut Squash (TBD)
  • Cranberry Sauce with Cayenne Pepper
  • Roasted Fennel & Haricots Verts in Lemon-Rosemary Dressing
  • Dessert – TBD
  • Wine and Port Programme to Complement